The extract below from the Field spaniel society goes a long way into explaining the temperament of a Field, but the one thing I would add is you MUST socialise as early, as much and as often as possible.

The more you have a Field experience from an early age, the better and more socially adjusted they will be. Field’s are notoriously shy and wary, so make the experiences varied, but little and often. If something happens that might startle the dog, acknowledge what startled it but don’t make a big deal out of it. Remember, it is a gundog and as such can become over focused on certain things, events etc., using an item (food, toy, teddy etc) to break over concentration from a young age will help stop things becoming an issue when the dog is older. All breeds need training and the earlier you start this the better. It not only helps to create a bond between you and your dog, but allows for you both to understand each other. Being able to ‘read’ your dog will allow you to spot signs of what your dog is trying to tell you before they becoming an issue. With all training, it will never be an overnight success, including toilet training, but repetitive, calm and fun work will create a happy Field and a happy human, firm but Fair I think I heard it said once for Field training and it’s true.

 

Crate training:

Field’s are a slow maturing heavy boned breed and as such, need extra care when young. They must NOT be allowed to jump on and off furniture or go up and down stairs until they are at least 18 months, to allow time for the joints to settle. Play time and training time is best kept too little and often, to allow the dog to rest in between and owning a crate for the dog is advisable. I, personally, am not keen on the over use of crates or cages. But with a Field, they are the best way to get your dog to rest and when used as a reward rather than a punishment, the dog is happy to use it too. To get your pup to be happy settling in a crate, you need to associate it with good things, so feeding them their dinner whilst in the crate, and soft chews and toys such as a kong or Yak bar, which are better on baby teeth, will keep them happily remaining in the crate for a while. Also, by crate training your dog from a young age, when you need to go out or when travelling in a vehicle, the dog is more than happy to settle down for a nap while you're busy. 

 

As a note, you have to be careful which toys you select for your Field. Puppies should never be left unsupervised with toys and hard or tug like toys are not advised. Not only do you have to be careful about possible choking hazards, but you also have to be careful with their bite (teeth), their joints (pasterns and hips) and their mouth (soft mouth). Field's can damage teeth and their bite if their teeth are not protected. A Gundog should have a 'soft mouth', so when picking up game, they don't damage it and pulling on growing joints can cause muscle or joint damage, which could leave lasting traits.

 

​

Below I have included some extracts from the Field society and for Gundog training as a good source of information. As you can see training does not have to be complicated or expensive, but does need your time, patience and consistency. Never start something you are not going to continue. A Field does not need to be a master of all, but does need socialisation, puppy classes and basic rules in order to be a well adjusted dog.

 

Extract from the Field Spaniel society:

 

“The Field Spaniel is a true country man, active tireless and inquisitive. He is not a dog for those out at work all day who mean to leave him shut indoors alone for hours on end.  Be sure he will protest long and loudly and annoy the neighbours, or vent his frustration by ripping the chair seats, chewing slippers, or removing wallpaper as would most dogs.

 

This is a loving sensitive breed, who likes to be with people and to take part in all that is going on.  Nearly all Fields are avid travellers, loving the motor car and often quite content just to sit in one even if not going anywhere.  They are not naturally obedient nor are they quick learners, but have to be taught firmly but gently from an early age what they may do and not do. Shouting, beating or any form of violent treatment will get you nowhere with a Field.  

 

Do not imagine that because your dog obeys you one day, he will do so the next.  A Field really needs to know his lessons well before he can be entirely trusted to carry out your bidding and even then, such is his sense of fun and desire to make everyone laugh, he will forget all he has been taught and do something quite absurd.”

 

 

Extract taken from Kirkbourne Spaniels:

 

THE BASICS

 

• Introduction to the world

It is most important to get our new arrival to the family introduced to as many things as possible.  This is better known as socialisation. 

Our pup needs to experience as much as possible, without it being worried about anything we show it.  For instance, we would not stand next to a busy main road to see if it can cope with cars. 

What we would do, is go to a road where very few cars pass, and when they do, they are slow, and not rushing past us.  So the key part of socialisation is to do it at a pace your new arrival can cope with. 

Please note that not all dogs are the same, and some may take longer to adjust to new situations.

 

• The pup on a lead

The first time we introduce a pup to a lead, it can prove to be a bad experience, if not done correctly.

Get the puppy in a place where it is happy. Normally this will be in your house, or in the garden. Show it the lead, touch the pup with it, but be sure not to torment it with the lead.  If you can, take hold of the dog, and put the lead around the dog’s neck. Then take it off. Show the pup it is not a problem, and it’s all a game.  Keep doing this whilst the dog is in your arms. 

Eventually, we can put the pup on the ground, and let it walk around with the lead on.  If it pulls you then go with it. 

Don’t try to stop it, or walk it at heel.  Let the dog take you where it wants, we can sort heel work out when the dog is happy with the lead.  When the pup starts to relax, we should try and encourage it towards us, and when it turns to us, we reward with a soft voice, telling the dog it is good.  

Pups or dogs don’t understand words, but they understand tones. A soft voice is welcoming, and the pup should react to it.  We can then start to walk the pup in the direction we want. From then on, increase the length of time the pup is on the lead ,but ensure it is all a positive experience.

 

• Heel work

Its so nice to be able to take your dog for a walk on the lead. Whether to the local park, to the shops, or on a shoot, but only if it walks nicely on the lead.

This is an element of training that many people struggle with, when really there is no need to. A dog on a lead pulling is dreadful, and it spoils your walk.  You get annoyed, and could end up being pulled over in slippery conditions, or at best, a sore hand from pulling the lead.  We have to remember the basic principles that I apply to all gundog training 'NICE VOICE,NOT SO NICE VOICE" .The tone of voice is difference between good and bad to the dog.  

How many of you have let the dog come off heel, tugged the lead, then shouted "heel"!!!!  Let us try and understand what we have just done. We have pulled the lead, and used the word heel as a correction, when we should only use it as a command . 

 This follows is the basic principle of all dog training, that is, letting the dog know the difference between right and wrong. 

We have now established how we speak to the dog.  Sit the dog at the side of you on the lead. Then, in a calm relaxed voice give the command " heel", and set off. Don’t set off, then say heel as the dog will move to your body language and not your command. 

If the dog starts to pull, you have several options. Firstly, you can raise your voice with a aghh sound, and apply pressure on the lead. Secondly, you can change direction.  If the dog pulls again, change direction again, ensuring you keep the dog nice and close to you. In some cases, the dog will put its nose to the floor, get the dog to sit, this moves its head up. 

Be consistent with your commands, and methodical in your training. Soon your dog should be walking at the side of you, nice and relaxed. When you have achieved this, you can then start to really tidy its heel work up.

A good idea is to walk alongside a wall, or hedge, with the dog on the inside.Change the pace you walk, to get the dog to adjust to your speed, not the other way round.

 

• Sit and Stay

This is one of the foundation commands of all our training. 

Without this command, it would be difficult to complete most of our requirements in the training of a dog, and ultimately in the field. This command is taught from an early age, and can be introduced whilst feeding the dog. Begin by lifting the food bowl high above the dog’s head, and give the command ‘Sit’. With your other hand press down on the rear of the dog. As soon as the dog sits, place the bowl on the floor. It does not take long for the dog to understand sit, means it is rewarded by the food.

It is my belief that we should use as fewer commands as possible. Therefore I do not use “Stay”. I use the SIT command for stay. The dog is told to SIT and to sit there until given another command. The art of training a dog SIT, and stay, in one position, is not to cut corners. Command the dog to SIT, and whenever possible hold a flat palm in front of the dog. 

When the dog is sat take one step back, and repeat the command. If the dog moves, you must always put it back where it came from, do not cut corners. Soon you will be able to walk further away from the dog and start to walk around the dog. 

At this stage never call the dog in, the handler should always return to the dog. If you call the dog in you are asking it not to sit, so we should not confuse where possible.

 

• Steadiness

Steadiness is very important with all gundog training, and to train steadiness, you must always put yourself in a win situation. 

Sit the dog down in front of you, and drop a dummy out of your game bag or pocket. When you do this give the command sit. If the dog moves place it back where it came from. 

When the dog is steady to the falling dummy you can then drop the dummy at arms length.

Do not use a ball at this stage as the ball will continue moving, and encourage the dog to run in. Once the dog is steady to this you can then start to throw the dummies around the dog. 

Do not let the dog have any retrieves on this exercise, and do not throw the dummies too far, just far enough that you are still able to reach them before the dog does should it break from the sit.

Then walk around the dog dropping dummies. Gradually increasing the distance between you and the dog.

Do not forget to repeat the command ‘Sit’ when you drop the dummies. 

Following this procedure you will soon be able to throw dummies all around the dog who will remain sat.

 

• Sitting to the Whistle

Sitting the dog to a whistle is just a continuation of the sit command with the hand signal. Instruct the dog to sit along with the hand signal, then give one 2 second blast on the whistle. 

Dogs are not hard of hearing so the whistle can be as quiet as you choose. 

There are many ways to get the dog to sit to the whistle, the above is one basic method.

 

• Recall to the whistle

To train recall, call your dog by name, followed by two short pips on the whistle, as the dog comes in repeat the pips. 

 If the dog is a little slow in the recall pat your leg, turn and walk away from the dog. 

Always do this when the dog is moving and always encourage it all the way back in. 

Try not to put it on the lead every time, as it will start to not want to come back as it will feel end of play is applied when it comes back.  

You can however call the dog in put it on the lead, stand up,  then take it off the lead, and let it run on.  

This way the dog will not associate the lead with anything negative.  If the dog does not come back immediately raise your voice, and when the dog turns to you, praise the dog.

 

 

Extract taken from Winward Field Spaniels:

 

Dog Training for the Lazy Trainer:

 

As we have previously emphasised, getting your dog involving in an obedience class early in life is essential.  Field Spaniels are versatile dogs who love to learn.  Becoming involved in additional organised training is fun and enjoyable for both of you.  Agility, hunting, therapy dogs, competition obedience, rally, tracking and other activities are fun, and afford the opportunity to make new friends and advance your dog's training even further.  Organised activities and competitions are not for everyone.  

 

Practicing the following activities will not only provide your dog with stimulation for their busy mind, but make them a more enjoyable, well-mannered pet.

 

Games to Play in Your Home:

 

Sit/Down Stay.  Place your pup on a leash and practice sit or down stays while you watch TV.  

 

Delivery Dog.  Teach your dog to retrieve.  Practice with different items to retrieve.  Start with soft, smaller items first  and then add new challenges.  Once your dog is proficient at retrieving, give him the item and then tell him "take it to" (and have the other person clap and call the dog to them.  If they are successful, the "receiver" should praise and have a cookie ready to give the dog after they take the item from them.  Be warned, there is a period during the learning process of this that your dog may bring you EVERYTHING in the house to show you how talented he is.  Just say thank you, but do not praise him enthusiastically.  He is learning and trying to please you, so you don't want to squelch his interest, but save the big praise for when he brings you the correct item and he will figure it out.

 

"Find It!"  Most dogs love to use their noses, but Field Spaniels are particularly nose oriented.  This is a fun game for 

both of you that will really help on those nights when it is too ugly to go out, but your pup is driving you nuts wanting to play.

 

Sit your dog or have someone hold them.  Show them a dog cookie and go about 8 feet away and place the cookie on the ground.  Tell them "find it" and let them go.  Zoom -- cookie gone!  That should not be too hard for him.  Next step is repeat this same process, but place a pillow or edge of a small rug over the cookie.  You're pup with quickly push and dig for the cookie until he gets it.  Repeat this at increasing distances while the dog watches, each time hiding the cookie a 

little further under the covering object.

 

Next let your pup see you go around the corner or hide the cookie just out of site behind a chair or couch.  Let him go with the "Find it" command and watch him really use his nose to "track" that cookie down! Each night, make the difficulty level a little harder.  Eventually have some one hold the dog as you go completely out of site into the next room.  Initially, keep the cookie in an obvious spot, but in a short time you will be able to hide the cookie anywhere in the house and 

you pup will work until he "rescues" that lost cookie!  WARNING:  I highly recommend NOT putting the cookie on top of furniture, tables, etc.  He will find it, but may turn your house into an obstacle course  to do so!  Trust me - we learned this by experience.

 

The Shell Game:  This is a great one to teach the kids.  Take three large plastic containers (4 or 6 inch potting containers from flowers or tomato plants are great )  It is a bit easier for the dog if the container has a hole in it, but not necessary.    Place the containers in front of the dog, show him a treat and put it under one of the containers.  Tell him "find it."  he will knock the container over, eat the treat and think you are weird, but wonderful.  Praise him for his success.

 

Now show him the treat, put it under one of the containers and then "shuffle" them.  Tell him "find it."  Some dog will knock over the correct one right away, others will randomly knock them over until they find the treat.  With a small amount of practice, he will become very efficient at always knocking over the correct container to find the treat.

 

Now  the fun starts.  Begin to use a tennis ball instead of the treat.  Each time he gets it correct, pull a treat out of your pocket and reward him.

 

​

Extract taken from Truequest gundog’s:

 

Spaniel – Shooting Field Training

Spaniels are trained to quarter in front of the handler and to flush game and should have the following skills:

 

Steadiness – When hunting all flushing dogs should sit when a bird starts to fly or a gun is fired over it. He is expected to mark the bird (if the handler/gun manages to shot it) and only go for the retrieve of the bird when the handler instructs it to do so.

 

Retrieve to Hand – All Test or Field Trial Judges require that a dog delivers a bird to hand, meaning that the dog is expected to hold the bird until told to give it to the handler.

 

Hand Signals – Hunting gun dogs are expected to respond to hand signals from the handler to direct it to cover and habitat of the game.

 

Soft Mouth – It is a requirement that all gun dogs deliver game with a soft mouth, which means it does not puncture the game with its teeth. The game should always be ‘fit for the table’. If a gun dog damages the bird, it may be classed as ‘hard mouthed’. This is a serious fault, and it can be difficult to determine whether it may have been genetic or caused by poor training methods.

 

Quartering/Hunting –  Dogs must work in a zig-zag pattern in front of the handler. The dog must be taught to stay within the gun range to avoid flushing a bird outside of the fair and safe shooting distance. This pattern is one of the major criteria’s used to judge a dog in a field trial.

 

Scenting – Having the ability to scent game is of vital importance to the handler. A gun dog should have a good nose in all weather conditions. A dog with a good nose will learn to use the wind in its quests for game, adjusting its pattern according to the direction of the wind.

 

Flushing – The hunting dog should have a confident flush. It should not hesitate when encountering game. It should flush/push the bird out with confidence but it should sit and wait for the handlers command as soon as the bird takes flight.

 

Hup – This is the traditional command to sit and stay, translated to a whistle command with a single pip. ‘Hup’ is your brakes, and should stop your dog in any situation. A dog that does not stop on the whistle is like running your car without any brakes.

 

Blind Retrieve – A well trained and experienced working gun dog is expected to use all of the training and experience above to be directed by hand and whistle to a position whereby an unmarked bird can be picked and retrieved to hand.

​

 

http://www.windwardfieldspaniels.com/RaisingYourFieldSpaniel.html

https://truequestgundogs.co.uk/training/spaniel-shooting-field-training/

https://www.kirkbournespaniels.co.uk/the-basics

http://www.fieldspanielsociety.co.uk/page32.html

​